Hidden Gems: Goto Islands
Experience a change of pace with the tranquil atmosphere and lush nature provided by the Goto Islands. These islands are comprised of five main islands off the coast of Nagasaki Prefecture in the southern Kyushu region of Japan. As the name “Goto Retto” translates into “five-island archipelago,” those islands are Fukue, Hisaka, Naru, Wakamatsu, and Nakadori. These islands hold historical significance as they became a place of refuge for Christians when Christianity was banned by the Edo Shogunate in the 1600s, and several locations throughout the islands are recognized as part of a larger UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Goto Islands played an important role in the refuge of Christians in Japan. The events that shaped the future of Christianity throughout the islands can be split into three key periods:
1549-1614: Christianity was introduced to Japan, led by Jesuit missionary St. Francis Xavier, which led to widespread conversions. Later, anti-Christian edicts were issued, resulting in the crucifixion of foreign missionaries and Japanese Christians, known as the famous “26 Martyrs.”
1614-1873: Nationwide ban of Christianity. As Christianity was outlawed, believers migrated to the remote Goto Islands. As they were isolated from the mainland, they were able to practice the faith in secret, giving rise to the communities known as the “Hidden Christians.” To avoid detection, these Christians would often disguise rituals as Buddhist or Shinto customs, which eventually led to a blend of beliefs and created a unique sect of Christianity.
1865-present: The “Hidden Christians” are discovered, and the Goto Crackdown begins. The new government under the Meiji Restoration lifted the ban on Christianity in 1873, and many of the Hidden Christians openly returned to Catholicism, while others chose to continue their blended faith practices. Many of the churches found throughout the islands were built by the famous Japanese architect, Yosuke Tetsukawa, as well as missionaries from Europe who returned to Japan to help re-establish the Catholic church in the Goto Islands.
The Goto Islands are home to around fifty churches, many of which remain open to visitors today. Some continue to serve as active places of worship, while others have been preserved as museums. Together, they stand as both architectural treasures and enduring symbols of resilience. Travelers can even pick up a stamp card to embark on a pilgrimage, collecting stamps along the way. No matter your reason for visiting, you’re almost certain to encounter one of these remarkable churches during your journey.
In addition to their historical significance, the islands are also featured in a popular manga series, Barakamon. This slice-of-life manga follows a short-fused calligrapher, Seishu Handa, who is sent to the Goto Islands to calm his temper and rediscover his sense of creativity. Amid his exile, he discovers personal growth, learns about the beauty in simplicity, and gains a sense of community. The themes in this story perfectly capture the warmth of the people who live in the Goto Islands and how there is so much to enjoy in the little things life provides. The Goto Islands are proud of their connection to the series and encourage fans to come visit on a pilgrimage to trace the steps their beloved characters ventured out on.
Exceptional Scenery
The serene nature of the Goto Islands is well-preserved thanks to its classification as part of the Saikai National Park. The park is made up of over 400 islands in Nagasaki Prefecture, including Hirado, the Kujikushima Islands, and the Goto Islands. The Goto Islands are especially captivating with their winding inlets, dramatic cliffs, ranging mountains, and picturesque views you cannot find in the city.
As for the main attraction, there is an abundance of activities you can take part in to fully enjoy the stunning, crystal-clear waters found all over the Goto Islands. As one of the best-kept secrets amongst divers, the islands boast their diverse marine life, historic shipwrecks, dramatic volcanic underwater landscapes, vibrant coral reefs, and more. Scuba diving is available on both Fukue and Nakadori Islands, with experiences suitable for all levels, ranging from complete beginner to seasoned divemaster experts. For those who prefer to stay closer to the surface, snorkeling, kayaking, and standup paddleboarding (SUP) are also equally exciting ways to enjoy the water.
Beaches such as Hamagurihama (Nakadori) and Takahama (Fukue) are even ranked among Japan’s “Top 100 Bathing Beaches,” making them the perfect destination to unwind and relax. Additionally, as a bonus, since these islands are often less traveled, you’ll be able to get a local experience without crowds.
Peak beach season runs from July through August, but you can still enjoy the great views and a variety of outdoor activities throughout the year.
Fishing is another activity enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, as the Goto Islands are surrounded by some of the richest fishing spots in Japan. You can catch and taste freshly caught delicacies such as flying fish, mackerel, sea bream, octopus, and even squid just from shore fishing. Fishing tours on a boat are also available if you want to try your hand at bigger catches like yellowtail, amberjack, kingfish, tuna, and more.
Delicious Cuisine
The Goto Islands have a variety of delicious foods, but perhaps the most renowned would be their Goto Udon, a vast selection of fresh seafood, and delectable sweet potatoes.
Goto Udon is recognized as one of Japan’s three great udons with its traditional hand-pulling process that can be traced back over 1,000 years. These noodles are thinner than conventional udon noodles and have a silky finish thanks to the inclusion of tsubaki (camellia) oil, another local specialty. Goto Udon is generally served in an ago (flying fish) broth, showcasing the islands’ deep ties to the sea.
Goto cuisine has been and continues to be shaped by the islands’ connection to the ocean, and they are proud of their abundance of fresh seafood. The type of seafood offered can change depending on the season. An exciting way to enjoy the fresh seafood the Goto Islands have to offer is by going to the asa ichi (morning market). This market is typically offered twice a month, and it is here that you can savor all-you-can-eat kaisen-don (seafood bowl) for just ¥500 (less than $5). The fish offered for the kaisen-don will vary based on the catch that day. It is also possible to buy whole fish at this market.
Another way to enjoy seasonal seafood is through the maguro (tuna) fair that is offered on Nakadori and Wakamatsu Islands about three times a year. Participating restaurants and establishments across the islands will showcase inventive dishes using local tuna.
Other can’t-miss seafood unique to the region include kattopo and whale. Kattopo is a dish featuring grilled boxfish filled with miso and ginger. It is a warm and savory dish that is best enjoyed in the colder months of the year.
A sweet treat integral to agriculture in the Goto Islands is the satsumaimo (sweet potato). The Goto Islands, with their mild climate and rich volcanic soil, provide the ideal environment for sweet potatoes to thrive. Sweet potatoes have long been a staple in the Goto Islands and were historically used as a food reserve to get through the colder months when food was scarce. Kankoro mochi is a specialty that was born out of the resourcefulness of the islanders, made from sun-dried sweet potatoes, glutinous rice flour, and sugar to provide a more filling meal. Today, it is a proud local delicacy that can be enjoyed in a variety of ways.
In addition to kankoro mochi, imo shochu (sweet potato shochu) has also become a local favorite originating from sweet potatoes. In general, the Kyushu Region of Japan is known for its shochu, but the Goto Islands have distinguished themselves in their sweet potato shochu production and have made it a symbol of local craftsmanship across the islands. The flavor of sweet potato shochu is known for being smoother and more aromatic than other shochu. There are several distilleries across the islands where you can catch a glimpse of the making of this local specialty as well as participate in guided tastings.
Things to do
Although these islands are considered quite rural, there are still a plethora of things to do outside of the beautiful waters and historic churches.
For those who enjoy the great outdoors, there are some breathtaking views that are a must-see. You can hike Mt. Onidake (Fukue), which offers spectacular panoramic views of the island and coast, or visit Yagatame Lookout Point (Nakadori), where you can witness one of the best sunsets the islands have to offer. On your way to Yagatame, you may also notice there is a rock that resembles the iconic Studio Ghibli character, Totoro. Then, at night, you can take in the beautiful night sky. As there is little light pollution on the islands, it offers unrivaled stargazing. Guided stargazing tours are also available.
If you enjoy culinary activities, there are several hands-on activities you can participate in to take home the taste of the Goto Islands with you:
Goto Udon hand-pulling experience: Step into a thousand years of tradition as you stretch, pull, and twist the noodles by hand, infused with the aroma of local camellia oil.
Kankoro mochi workshops: More than just cooking, this hands-on experience invites you to connect with the people of the Goto Islands while learning how kankoro mochi reflects the region’s food traditions, history, and role in the community.
Salt-making workshops: Connect with the sea through an immersive salt-making experience in Kamigoto (Nakadori). Crafted from mineral-rich seawater, this local salt is celebrated for its distinctive, full-bodied flavor.
Tap into your creative side through stained glass making, creating a one-of-a-kind keepsake that celebrates the Goto Islands’ history and supports local craftsmen. This immersive experience is open to all skill levels and often offers multiple patterns to choose from.
Access
You can access the Goto Islands from the mainland via plane, car ferry, or high-speed boat. Between all the islands, there is one airport located in Goto City on Fukue, with flights to and from Fukuoka and Nagasaki City. There are several ferry and high-speed boat companies between Fukuoka, Sasebo, and Nagasaki that you can use to go to and from the islands. Nakadori and Wakamatsu Islands are the only islands connected by a bridge, with travel between the other islands being possible via the ferry and high-speed boat network. You can travel to the islands with a car or rent one, as there is usually a car rental company near the ports. Mopeds or bicycles are also available to rent.
Whether you visit the Goto Islands to dive into its pristine waters, savor delicious local cuisine, engage in unique cultural workshops, or simply escape the bustle of the mainland, the islands provide a peaceful setting to unwind and recharge.