Hakone: A Historical Retreat

Placed as a major landmark on the Edo-period Tokaido road between the major cities of Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo), the city of Hakone, tucked away near Mt. Fuji, still carries on its remarkable legacy as a bridge between tradition and modernity. Four hundred years ago, this city served as a major checkpoint in Edo-period travel. Now, four hundred years later, it offers an experience of Japan’s unique onsen, or hot spring culture. Even now, Hakone offers a rich diversity in which anyone can find their own niche. 

An oft-frequented spot for journeyers to relax after the bustle of urban Tokyo, Hakone is second to none in its offerings of ryokan, or traditional Japanese inns. Springwater driven from deep within the earth by the volcanic activity surrounding Mt. Fuji is infused with natural minerals that calm the skin, soothe bodily aches, and ease the mind. The surrounding ryokan take full advantage of this precious natural resource to provide an onsen experience that serves as a balm to the skin and soul alike. 

Among these ryokan is Gora Kadan, a quiet haven amidst the mountains of Hakone. Originally the summer retreat of Imperial Prince Kan’in Kotohito in the early 20th century, this historic villa carries on the unique spirit of Japanese hospitality over a century later. Every aspect of its experience, from its natural springwater to its carefully curated cuisine, promises to enchant each of the five senses. The art-loving traveler will find their curiosity easily sated at their doorstep, with multiple incredible art museums in the area; those craving relaxation can delight in the in-house spa that further enhances the mineral-rich springwater’s natural healing qualities. With its spectacular blend of modernity and tradition and its individual open-air baths, this ryokan offers a bespoke retreat into nature and zen.

For those craving a more modern flavor, the ryokan Fufu, also placed in central Hakone, blends traditional Japanese cuisine and onsen culture with the smart, carefully planned convenience of modernity. Boasting both a traditional large, shared bath and individual pools in each room, Fufu prides itself on blending the traditional with modern conveniences, and this carries from its teppanyaki cuisine, cooked on scorching iron grills, to its ability to tailor the bathing experience to each guest’s preferences. Fufu also arranges cycling tours and photography services for its guests at their request to provide an experience tailored perfectly to their preferences. 

Finally, for the traveler searching for a true oasis among the bustle of their journey, Motoyu Kansuiro, a deeply traditional ryokan overlooking the beautiful Haya river, provides a secluded retreat from the more traveled areas in central Hakone. Guests can partake in a truly authentic ryokan experience that draws deeply on the concept of omotenashi, the unique style of Japanese hospitality that focuses on not only meeting requests but also mindfulness of what can be done to create the best experience possible. Delightful Japanese cuisine is served in the most traditional style of ryokan dining, with each dish highlighting seasonal ingredients and the entire meal served in the guest’s room, rather than a larger restaurant. Futon, traditional Japanese beds, are prepared every night by highly trained staff to ensure a comfortable, authentically Japanese stay. Its rooms all feature views of the nearby river, creating a sanctuary for its guests. Motoyu Kansuiro promises its guests a unique experience of Japanese tradition, drawing from Hakone’s own four-hundred-year legacy as a major stop on the old Tokaido road. 

While visitors could easily wile away their time relaxing in the plethora of spas and onsen provided on-site in many ryokan, those who venture beyond their inn’s doors will find yet more wonderful experiences, easily adjusted to their own tastes. Hakone boasts one of the most splendid views of Mt. Fuji, which towers over the mountain town in all its majesty. Other peaks, too, surround the mountain, providing a sheltering refuge to pursue serenity and zen.

The most golf-enthused guests will find enjoyment in the Hakone-en Golf Course, only twenty minutes by taxi from central Hakone. Set on a picturesque hill overlooking the beautiful Lake Ashi and the mountains beyond, this course offers an experience like no other, combining familiar leisure with a one-of-a-kind view. 

Art lovers, too, can find their place in Hakone. The Hakone Open-Air Museum on the outskirts of Hakone features a vast collection of art. Visitors can wander through the museum’s statue garden, featuring dozens of works from famous modern and abstract artists such as Henry Moore and Taro Okamoto. Venturing inside, one can admire an incredible collection of pieces by Pablo Picasso, ranging through the various phases in his career. For those who favor historical over abstract art, the Narukawa Art Museum is a must-see. After perusing their large collection of nihonga (traditional Japanese paintings), visitors can relax on the viewing deck offering a panoramic view of Hakone’s mountainous peaks and the lake they cradle between them.  

For those who wish to explore the same paths that carved Hakone into Japan’s pre-modern history, Hakone also offers a vast network of hiking trails. From the historical Old Tokaido Road, walked by samurai and bureaucrats since the 17th century, to winding trails leading to overlooks of the lake and Mt. Fuji beyond, Hakone’s trails also tailor to each visitor’s preferences and interests. Nature’s spectacles even begin at one’s own doorstep: Chisuji Falls, just fifteen minutes by foot from central Hakone, beguiles passersby with lush green moss and thread-like strands of water streaming down into a crystal-clear pool. While Hakone can be enjoyed at all times of the year, its fall foliage turns an already stunning view into a vibrant, extraordinary spectacle. For those seeking to connect with nature or restore the spirit, there is no better place to go than Hakone.