The Hidden Gems of Tohoku: Celebrating Seasonality in Four Short Tours

While many travelers are familiar with the areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, many overlook the regions to the north, which in itself offers an incredible array of natural treasures unlike anywhere else in Japan. This area, known as Tohoku, may be less traveled than the other regions to its south, but it has a wide diversity of outdoor experiences for the nature-loving traveler who has already journeyed the Tokaido-based circuit. In a country that celebrates shiki, “the four seasons,” and cherishes the changing landscapes that come with it, Tohoku has an incredible array of landscapes. From skiing and hiking to flower-viewing and boat rides, any lover of picturesque nature is sure to find new and incredible adventures in this hidden gem of a region. 

An Afternoon of Summer Delights in Southern Iwate

(recommended time: mid-June to early July)

Summer in Japan has an incredible diversity of festivals, activities, and cultural experiences, but visitors can often find themselves bogged down by intense heat and large crowds; some travelers may seek to journey north towards Aomori or Hokkaido to avoid these roadblocks. However, those traveling by shinkansen have a remarkable opportunity to explore off the beaten path, with some of the best of Japan’s great nature only a twenty-minute drive from the shinkansen station. 

For those who seek a chance to rest and sightsee as they journey north towards Aomori, consider a stop in southern Iwate Prefecture. With multiple outdoor attractions easily visitable together in a single afternoon, it gives travelers a chance to breathe between legs of your journey. After hopping off the shinkansen at Ichinoseki Station, two hours north of Tokyo by the Tohoku Shinkansen, a private driver or taxi can whisk guests away to the Michinoku Hydrangea Garden, only twenty minutes away. 

While the sakura, or cherry blossom, is the most iconic flower of Japan, the Japanese people celebrate all of the season’s blessings, and the Michinoku Hydrangea Garden is one of the best places to do so. An iconic symbol of Japan’s tsuyu, or summer’s rainy season, which spans from mid-June to July, the hydrangea is showcased in all its glory here in the largest garden in Japan dedicated to the flower. Visitors can delight in a sprawling garden showcasing the beauty of early Japanese summer.

After a tour of the garden, another ten-minute drive will bring you to Geibikei Gorge, designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty. From there, a private guide can bring visitors down a scenic river that flows between two rocky cliffsides in a traditional Japanese boat. In this ninety-minute tour, visitors can learn about the history of the region and revel in the natural beauty of the greenery sprouting from either side of this narrow gorge.

As both locations on this tour are only a thirty-minute drive from Ichinoseki Station, a major stop on the Tohoku Shinkansen, this tour is easily done in about five hours, providing an afternoon romp between time on the Shinkansen for those already traveling to northern Japan. 

Soothing the Soul and Treating the Eyes: An Ancient Pilgrimage Route Amongst Autumn Leaves

(recommended time: early to mid September)

The Tohoku region is second to none in its offerings of koyo, or autumn foliage, and few areas in the region have more vibrant, breathtaking views than Yamagata Prefecture on the western coast of Japan. While the riotous colors of autumn leaves can easily be enjoyed throughout the local area, those searching for a unique moment of zen and spirituality will find interest in the Dewa Sanzan, located in the southern part of the prefecture, an hour’s drive from the Yamagata Airport.

The Dewa Sanzan (出羽三山, lit. “The Three Mountains of Dewa”) boast a remarkable history and have been worshipped for centuries by both Shintoism and Buddhism. The first and shortest mountain, Mt. Haguro (羽黒山), represents the present and the journey of life; the stunning Mt. Gassan (月山), featuring remarkable alpine plantlife and the most challenging hike of the journey, represents death and the past; and Mt. Yudono (湯殿山), the third and final of the pilgrimage, stands as a symbol of the afterlife and the future. While all three mountains are most easily hiked in summer, delaying your trip to the cusp of fall not only allows you to avoid summer’s heat but also promises incredible views of the Yamagata fall colors, one of Japan’s most stunning natural phenomena. 

While the most traditional route saw pilgrims hike all three mountains in order, it is perfectly fine to hike as much or as little as you wish. Mt. Haguro, the first of the mountains, is the most easily hiked and welcoming for those looking for a quicker journey. Mt. Gassan has the most unpredictable weather and the shortest climbing season from June to the end of September, making for a challenging climb. However, even a short hike around the mountain’s eighth station brings you to the Midagahara Wetlands, an otherworldly field of shallow pools and alpine plant life with a remarkable panoramic view of the surrounding region. For those seeking a challenge, the trip to the shrine at the peak of Gassan takes approximately three hours one-way. The third, Mt. Yudono, is less traveled but accessible from Mt. Gassan’s peak in approximately three additional hours on foot. Those who arrive at Mt. Yudono’s shrine will be blessed by a priest for completing their journey. While touring all three mountains is the most traditional route, visiting the mountains separately can also ensure proper rest and an easier time. 

For those seeking to walk the path that pilgrims walked before them, some planning is required. These three mountains are relatively remote, though private guides and drivers are available and highly recommended. For those seeking to hike all three mountains, we recommend dedicating three days and two nights to the adventure. In addition, Gassan, the most volatile of the three mountains, requires hiking gear, raincoats, and warm clothing, as the peak can reach lows of five degrees Celsius even in the peak of summer. 

Winter: Adventure and Relaxation in the Mountains of Zao

(recommended time: January - late February)

For those seeking a winter retreat, few places in Japan are better than Zao, a mountain resort straddling the border of Yamagata and Miyagi Prefectures. Known for its incredible skiing, natural onsen (Japanese hot springs), and the enigmatic juhyo, or hoar frost, Zao is a remarkable destination for those wishing to enjoy both the comforts and adventures that winter provides. 

While Zao is well-known in Japan for skiing and bathing, the most unique feature of the area is the juhyo (樹氷). While literally translated as “hoar frost,” these incredible natural phenomena are often affectionately called “snow monsters” in English. As the name suggests, the trees near the peak of Mt. Zao become covered in thick layers of snow fueled by cold air that flows from Siberia, creating a unique, iconic silhouette. Some ski and snowboarding slopes even run between these trees, creating an atmosphere for winter sports like no other. 

Travelers can easily spend their entire stay enjoying the wonders of skiing, snowboarding, and the incredible winter landscape; the area features multiple courses with a wide variety of difficulty, sure to please everyone from beginners to veterans. However, as the night rolls in, Zao welcomes visitors to wash away their fatigue at a nearby onsen. With many ryokan, or Japanese inns, offering large baths fueled by the natural volcanically-heated water of Mt. Zao, you can easily relax both your body and mind. 

Zao is easily accessible via the Yamagata Shinkansen. The resort is approximately forty minutes by car from Yamagata Station, and the area has many ryokan for you to rest after your journey. 

Spring: An Adventure to Far-Flung Coastal Miyagi

(recommended time: mid-May)

While domestically known for its abundance of fresh seafood and breathtaking coastal views, the Sanriku Coast along northeastern Japan is relatively unknown in the Western world, an incredible example of nature hidden to all but the most seasoned visitors. While more remote than other areas, this quiet coast offers some of the freshest seafood in all of Japan as well as remarkable hiking opportunities. 

The city of Kesennuma, approximately four hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen and local train, is home to some of the best hikes in the region. While smaller in population, its port is one of the largest producers of bonito, tuna, and countless other delights. The freshness of the seafood is sure to please any gastronomer’s taste buds, and plenty of local restaurants take full advantage of the local seafood. While tuna and other fish are served everywhere in the city, you may also enjoy more unique dishes such as shark-heart sashimi, a delicacy exclusive to Kesennuma, and hoya, or sea pineapple, which boasts a unique flavor that mixes the sweet, bitter, and salty.

While Kesennuma is easily visitable at all times of the year, visitors who arrive in mid-May should take a thirty-minute drive to Mt. Tokusenjo on the outskirts of the town. This normally-sleepy mountain bursts into a field of crimson azaleas every year in late spring, and the short trail to the peak and back can be hiked in just a few hours. The entire path, from beginning to end, is lined with bushes of reddish-pink azaleas spreading out as far as the eye can see, and it is considered the best azalea-viewing spot in all of Japan.

For those seeking a more intense hike, a forty-minute drive will bring visitors to the Karakuwa Olle Trail, a relatively unknown hiking spot along the northern coast of the city. Set on a peninsula surrounded by stunning views of the Pacific Ocean, this five-hour course passes by several incredible landmarks, from shrines with thousand-year histories to breathtaking rock formations. This route will also bring visitors to the Tsunami Stones, giant rocks unearthed from the seabed and washed ashore during the tsunami on March 11, 2011, providing a sobering reminder of both the beauty and raw power of the nature that surrounds us. For those seeking to visit Kesennuma, a one-night stay should be enough to see the best of what the city has to offer.

The region of Tohoku, historically overlooked both domestically and internationally, is a sea of hidden gems showcasing the incredible seasonality that Japan holds so dear. While it can be more remote than other regions, it is not inaccessible, and plenty of locales are perfect for a day trip or overnight stay, allowing you to take in the beauty of nature.